Bird’s nest ferns have lower humidity requirements than many ferns, grow best in low or moderate indirect light, and may even tolerate modest pots and dirt that has been allowed to dry out. Place one where its broad, sword-shaped leaves may capture filtered sun for a gorgeous tropical accent in any number of settings.
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Bird’s nest ferns are epiphytic, meaning that in the wild they really often grow on a bunch, like a tree trunk, fallen branches or possibly a bromeliad plant, though they’re also capable of growing on the floor. Since it may grow in a minimum amount of organic material, this fern may be planted or placed in many different cosmetic containers, even the ones that may appear small awarded the plant’s measurements.
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Bird’s nest develops a deep rosette of big, shiny, spear-shaped fronds. It had been given its name because of the way fronds unfurl from the plant’s center. The new fronds are fragile, so be sure to put your fern in a place where it won’t get disturbed or brushed against.
In nature the bird’s nest fern collects water in the center of its rosette, much like a bromeliad. Avoid watering houseplants in this area, because the standing water may cause rot. Supply water into the plant through the soil. Misting is recommended, too.
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Best in moderate grows to light. Their identifying crinkly leaves vary based on the amount of light they get. Bright light will generate a bird’s nest fern with crinkled leaves, while less light will result in flatter leaves.
Keep the fronds dust free by spraying water and lightly wiping with a damp cloth. Spray-on foliage polishing products must be prevented with ferns, because they can seriously damage their fragile fronds. Furthermore, if you find an infestation of scale insects, which look like small, brown discs (don’t confuse them with contaminants), spray on the fronds with soapy water followed by fresh water. Insecticides aren’t suggested to be used on sensitive ferns.
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The key to a healthy bird’s nest is supplying enough heat and moisture. When these two conditions are properly met, the ferns can also withstand higher light levels. A shower ledge by a window, as an example, is a good place for a nutritious bird’s nest fern.
As a big bird’s nest fern looks lovely on this window, be aware that too much light and particularly direct sun may cause the fronds to yellow and die. On the flip side, as they age, the ferns elongate above the soil level, and the lower fronds turn brownish. This is normal. Just cut the base to keep the plant looking healthy.
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While widely available as a houseplant, bird’s nest fern is native to a few exotic locations spanning the world. Asplenium nidus, whose fronds will grow so long as 5 feet in its native habitat, is located in tropical southeastern Asia, eastern Australia, Hawaii, Polynesia, Christmas Island, India and eastern Africa. Asplenium australasicum, the common houseplant, whose fronds reach a span of about 21/2 ft in its natural warm, humid and shady environment, is native to eastern Australia entirely.
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This photograph, of the California Academy of Sciences’ walk-through rain forest display, reveals a bird’s nest frond close up in its normal environment. Bird’s nest fern includes a built-in design alternative for the houseplant lover who needs to keep plants out of easy reach: It can be mounted to planks of wood, like a staghorn fern, also hung on a wall.
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How to Care for Your Bird’s Nest Fern:
Temperature: The optimum temperature range is 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (16 to 24 degrees Celsius). The plants will begin to endure below about 55 degrees for intervals, and 70 to 80 degrees are preferred by them. A seedling heating pad can often help dormant plants.
Light: Give it bright filtered light to medium shade, with no direct sunlight exposure, other than very early morning sunlight. Switch the pot frequently to ensure symmetrical growth.
Water: This is a authentic jungle plant which thrives with evenly moist soil and also the highest humidity potential. Water it less in winter rather than use water into the center rosette, because it can cause rot. Yellow fronds are a sign of overwatering.
Soil: Use loose, rich natural compost or peat-moss-based soil.
Feeding: During summer and spring, fertilize weekly or biweekly with balanced liquid fertilizer diluted by half an hour. Deformed leaves with yellowish or brownish spots or edges are a sign of too much compost.
Humidity: Moderate. Relative humidity above 50 percent is required. If needed, use a humidity tray or a room humidifier to add moisture into the atmosphere around the fern.
Repotting: Repot no longer than any year in the spring with a pot that is just one size up, or whenever the roots fill the pot.
Toxicity: Nontoxic.
Fascinating fact: In Taiwanthe fronds of Asplenium australasicum are cut into bits, fried with garlic and chili peppers, also eaten.